PARK HOUSE
Park House needs little introduction for the quality of its dining, but occasionally
they turn the gas up a couple more notches by inviting guest chefs to work
their magic in the kitchen. Martin Blunos is one of UK’s best with
two Michelin stars to his name and admirers that include Marco Pierre White,
Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal. So I could hardly turn down the opportunity
to sample his fayre. A five-course menu with a Welsh-sourced theme was order
of the evening. The depth and ingenuity offered up was truly remarkable.
Complementing tastes and textures just seemed to unroll, layer upon layer
as you progressed through the meal. We began with a number of small appetisers
- poached pear and blue cheese canapés had perfect balance, the chicken
parfait was light and refreshing and the spare ribs complex and aromatic.
Next came Gower coast cockles with potato pancakes and a rich leek purée – the
cockles tender and sweet, the pancakes light, the potato earthy. Shoulder
of Pembrokeshire lamb and rosemary with mashed potatoes and kale was the
main dish. All the usual flavours you associate with lamb with rosemary were
here, but just so much more depth to them, not surprising given the three
days it takes to prepare. A mischievous signature dish followed. It looked
like boiled egg and soldiers, but inside the eggshell was white mousse and
apricot. The main dessert, Bara Brith bread and butter pudding featured a
marmalade topping, hints of nutmeg – and crème brulee at the
bottom, simply delicious. Food like this isn't cheap but you need to try
it to appreciate the sheer joy of eating dishes that have been crafted so
carefully. If you're looking for a genuinely special, very memorable dining
experience it's well worth the investment and as Martin explained, you really
need to ‘experience the experience to understand’ and he’s
right. I’ll be going again and next time I’ll be having the matched
wines, which apparently take it to another level. Martin will be guesting
regularly at The Park House Club. Call or email to find out when.
Our intrepid diners rate some great plates
