BAROCCO
Wharton Street
Cardiff
From the moment you stroll into Barocco’s inviting warmth it’s
apparent this is an entirely different proposition to predecessor, Isit? The
classier name swap is obvious, replacing a tacky moniker that doubtless inspired
countless confusing conversations for inebriated halfwits on Saturday night
drinking destinations (“Isit? Is it?” “Uh?” And so
on). But the real mark is a lights-low policy and sympathetic décor
that, while exhibiting a touch of Roman splendour doesn’t overawe drinkers
or leave them unable to relax.
A gargantuan mirror dominates the downstairs bar – strangely unnoticeable
in Isit? – with a glowing triumvirate of chandeliers, a fireplace and
widespread candles setting off a homely feel perfect for escaping the winter
chill. Upstairs, also available for private hire, a collection of imaginative
drapes and regal upholstery wipe away the memory of the previously sparse bottle
bar it replaces, reminiscent of the midpoint between a gentleman’s club
and a modestly luxurious Persian boudoir.
As a Brain’s bar, the SA/45 crowd will stay refreshed; venturing further
into the spirits and wines reveals more forward thinking treats. Non-drinkers,
or those not compelled to down units at midday, are catered for via a fair
trade coffee range and soft drinks that exceed regular designated driver dross.
A ginger and lemongrass pressé, for example, certainly renders half
a Coke embarrassing dull and unsophisticated. Definitely recommended.
Punters: Quality-drinking gents and quietly-attractive swish ladies
Drinks: Champagnes £36.95-£46.95 a bottle. Wine £10.95-£16.95
a bottle, £3-£3.75 a small glass, £3.65-£5.35 a large
glass. Draughts £2.50-£3.50, bottles £2.95-£3.65. Spirits £2.60-£2.65
a shot
Ambience: Enveloping pocket of calm day and night
Contact: 029 2041 3600
Adam Kennedy
It’s our turn to get them in