Gilby’s @ The Bay
This deceptively large restaurant, tucked away into the bedrock of the Wales Millennium Centre has recently been taken over by the team at Gilby’s Restaurant near the Vale of Glamorgan. Though the changes can appear subtle to the naked eye, fundamental change has taken place here. Executive chef Kurt Fleming explained how he was taken on board to create a menu that would not only serve to sate the theatre hordes, but one that would appeal to the public at large. In order to do that he realised that something special was needed – and he didn’t disappoint. My Guinea Fowl and Foie Gras Terrine was meaty and manly but light and shrewd enough not to sate or oversatisfy, allowing me to devour the main course of Roasted Rump of Welsh Lamb with a Green Vegetable Ragout with the justice it deserved. With the emphasis on sourcing local Welsh produce where possible, you’d be forgiven for thinking that even the langoustines in L, my partner for the night’s ravioli had been line-caught down off Cardiff Bay. Served with chilled cucumber soup on a warm plate, the hot/cold/hot contrast of this dish leaves your tastebuds thinking a sidestepping Shane Williams has just turned them inside out. L’s Welsh fillet steak was cooked to perfection, so much so that I couldn’t help asking for ‘‘one more bite…just one’’. You could feel it melting like ice-cream in the mouth, but it left just the right amount to satisfyingly chew on – gratefully prolonging the experience. Dessert was impressive in equal parts its presentation, quantity and above all else, taste. Housed in the same building as the wonderful Donald Gordon Theatre, Gilby’s @ The Bay, with its expert supporting cast knows to let the food take centre stage.

Gilby’s @ The Bay
Wales Millennium Centre
Bute Place
Cardiff Bay, CF10 5AL
www.gilbysthebay.co.uk
029 2045 9000

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