THE CROWN AT CELTIC MANOR
One of the first restaurants I reviewed for RedHanded was Owen’s at the Celtic Manor, a night of good food, great wine and surreal celeb spotting – Rob Lowe had just eaten; Jamie Theakston had just been turned away; MOR soprano-sax symbol Kenny G was trying to keep his hair out of his soup opposite. Tonight, J and I returned to the ‘Manor’, as Danny Dyer might call it, to find another star on show: Michelin-studded chef James Sommerin. The namesake of Sommerin’s award-winning restaurant at Whitebrook, The Crown at Celtic Manor more than does justice to his much lauded work in Monmouthshire. J and I decided on the taster menu with wines specially selected to compliment the six courses. Food and drink all-in it rounded up to an even £100 per-head but from the salad of slow-poached hen’s egg and artichoke to succulent lamb and kidney, incredible flavours on show were proof enough of why the name of The Crown has become chief botherer of not only Wales’ but the UK’s top restaurant lists in recent years. Equally, the sommelier’s selection was well worth the extra pennies, each choice expertly made and delivered with none of the cartoon pretentiousness often associated with the role. Such excellent care was consistent throughout the elegant and roomy dining space, and was always delivered with that perfect blend: warm precision. Expert in their roles with mutual trust in the confidence and skill of each member of the team, a relaxed confidence permeated every aspect of our dining experience and did perhaps the most important job of all – allowing the kitchen to get on with making sure the food was the real star of the show.

The Celtic Manor Resort
Coldra Woods
The Usk Valley
Newport, NP18 1HQ
01633 410 262
www.celtic-manor.com

Time for some rather fine dining

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