City-centre chic meets suburban sleek at The Potted Pig’s sister restaurant, Porro. After opening in May, this fine dining hot-spot has become a firm Llandaff village favourite. Playing a prominent role on the high street, the door is open for breakfast, lunch and supper and draws foodies from near and far.
The name - which means Leek in Italian - encapsulates the concept behind Porro to a tee; working with seasonal produce sourced locally in Wales and from Italy. It’s a dream fulfilled for head-chefs Tom Furlong and Gwyn Myring, who met in the kitchen of Cibo, Pontcanna. Following their roaring success at The Potted Pig, with its nose-to-tail cuisine, they envisioned a stylish, casual dining space with a menu of ‘Italianish’ treats.
Having recently enjoyed their excellent lunch menu, I was thrilled to receive an invitation for supper. I chose the Gin of the Day as an aperitif – a nice nod to the extensive gin menu at The Potted Pig; the botanicals of the Brecon Special Reserve immediately zinged to life along with the burst of fresh orange peel.
As a pre-dinner snack, the salty and smoky speck pate, spread on sourdough toast was a winner. Paired with a devilish dash of whipped pork lardo, it put all French rilletes to shame.
The ravishing starter that followed was a masterclass in diplomacy. The sweet braised leeks tempered the lively tang of grilled tallegio cheese on toast; a perfect Welsh-Italian rarebit, if you like. My partner’s lighter but nonetheless tasty goat’s cheese salad - with roasted beetroot, carrot and pine nut - was similiarily devoured with glee.
As a main, the papardelle with braised ox cheek and parmesan is a perennial on the menu. This rich and fruity comfort-dish has earned its keep, as a firm Porro customer favourite. The duck breast, served pink - sourced from Madgett’s Farm near Monmouth - also hit the spot; served with cannellini bean croquettes, and crispy Cavolo Nero leaves, it was the highpoint of the meal for me.
Although full to the brim, we couldn’t possibly leave without a taste of something sweet. The tiramisu parfait was the perfect choice; a light and tasty coffee-custard ice slice.
The whole evening was a fabulous, midweek treat that made a soggy Tuesday evening feel like a Saturday night. There’s no doubt in my mind that I’ll be back; I’d better book a table now for breakfast.
22 High Street
Llandaff, Cardiff CF5 2DZ
Tel: 029 2056 5502