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The Beech Tree Inn

" We were the last to leave that evening,
which really says it all; what a marvellous night "

It’s been quite some time since I enjoyed a Saturday evening out as much as my visit to The Beech Tree Inn near Wenvoe. An old friend kept me in gales of laughter all night, but the nostalgic location was the perfect spot for a warm catch-up. 
 
The menu is classic and comforting European fare, with an emphasis on excellent fish dishes. We began with the melt-in-the-mouth Tempura King Prawns, whilst my partner devoured the crunchy Hot Duck Salad. 
 
Although the local steak flies off the menu, along with the Monmouthshire lamb shank, I chose another firm Beech Tree Inn favourite: Sea Bass and Lemon Sole à la Meunière paired with a light Champagne and Mushroom velouté. A perfect balance and simple food elegance. An added thrill was the salad bar, awakening fond Cardiff childhood food memories. My partner’s Walnut and Herb-crusted Cod was just as delicious, and within minutes we had both cleared our plates.

For dessert, it proved impossible to resist the Black Forest Gâteau and accompanying Morello Cherry Ice Cream, for a blast of retro fun. I was astounded at the craftsmanship of this classic German torte, and it was as far from the soggy-bottomed ’70s food cliché as you can get. As light as a snowflake, and enhanced by the finely-fragranced iced treat, this was a classic reimagined for contemporary palates. 
 
We were the last to leave that evening, which really says it all; what a marvellous night. A welcome break from the city-centre, and yet only a 10 minute cab-ride away, we felt like we’d been given a hearty autumnal hug. Some restaurants are hyped to high heaven and close within a year, whilst others stay the distance for good reason. ‘Fashion fades but style remains’, so said Coco Chanel; indeed, the very same could be said for The Beech Tree Inn.

The Beech Tree Inn Old Port Rd, Wenvoe, Cardiff CF5 6DN Tel. 029 2059 3106

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